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DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
alien-w
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Pridružen: 22.06.06 |
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I am writing this DIY in English so Getz owners from other countries will understand it. This is my 1.6 2006 Getz GLS - the test lab rat:
Prologue:
Since I bought my 1.6 Getz in 2006 I was frustrated that it didn't come with rear disc brakes. Since then I was searching the internet for DIY or at least a short description on how to change rear drum brakes to disc brakes. I have to confess the conversion was mainly for aesthetic reasons so I didn't expect a big gain in braking power.
Months of searching and asking people on different forums later gplata a friend from Greece that I met on Hyundai-forums.com finally gave me something to work with. He did the conversion too but only had the numbers for parts needed because the conversion was done by the Hyundai dealership and he had no details available.
When I finally had something to work with I started inquiring about the parts with the Slovenian dealership Hyundai Avto trade. I had a problem. The part numbers gplata gave me were for the original Getz and I have the face-lifted version. We figured that the parts should be the same because the rear end mechanics didn't change. I asked the dealer how much would the parts cost me and the number was so huge all my hopes perished. The only choice was to find a crashed Getz and take the parts from it. The problem was that only a diesel version has rear disc brakes in Slovenia and there aren't many diesel Getz around, not alone crashed ones. But I fortunately found a crashed diesel Getz and the rear end was not damaged at all. It also only had 10.000 kilometers on the clock so the brakes were as good as new. The only problem was that this was a pre F/L Getz so I didn't actually know if the brakes will fit. Anyway I bought them for 220 € and hoped for the best.
Parts needed:
For the conversion you will need discs, calipers and hubs. The face-lift and pre-face-lift parts are complementary and can be used on both versions of the car. Here are the Hyundai part numbers for the old model, so the ones I used on my FL:
2x H 58411 - 1C800 (discs);
1x H 58300 - 1C800 (left caliper);
1x H 58300 - 1C800 (right caliper);
1x H 58310 - 1C800 (left hub and hand brake parts);
1x H 58410 - 1C800 (right hub and hand brake parts);
2x hand brake wire;
2x custom made braking hoses.
I had to get my braking hoses custom made. Diesel Getz has a different of running the lines - there are two line and each one comes out at the wheel arch. Well the petrol version has two lines that come to the rear of the car on the left side. From there one goes to the left wheel arch and the right one goes to the main rear beam and then from there to the wheel arch. So I bought new lines - one has to be approximately 125 centimeters long (right side) and the other one approx 60 cm long (left side). Both of them must have a male screwing connector on one end and a circular hollow bolt type that fits on the calipers.
Refurbishing:
Here is how the brakes looked like when I got them (not too nice, right?):
They were mounted on a car that stood on rain, snow and sun for about a year so they were quite corroded. But fortunately the wheels were not mounted so they were able to dry fast and so the rust was only on the surface. After a few minutes of cleaning the disc with a wire brush supplement for the drilling machine an almost brand new disc emerged:
I cleaned the hubs and the outer edges of the discs to the bare metal and gave the friction surface a good sanding treatment to remove all the rust. I also sanded the internal drum handbrake surface to remove the braking dust and to even the surface for the best result. When everything was rust free I cleaned both discs with cleaning gasoline to remove all the sanding residue possible grease from my hands. This process insures that the color will stick to the surface. I painted the hubs, and the outer edge with a gray Mobihel primer and let it dry for 20 minutes. Painting right after sanding and cleaning was done to ensure no new rust would form. I am sorry I don't have the pictures in the mid stages, so you will have to be satisfied with the almost finished ones:
Then I started cleaning the calipers. I took them apart, removed the cylinder all the rubber bushes and everything that could be disassembled.
How to remove the cylinder from the caliper? You can use an air pump for your bike or car. Remove the brake pads and disassemble the caliper in two pieces. Place a cone part (used to inflate air mattresses etc.) on the end of the pumping hose and hold it in the hole where the braking fluid normally flows through the braking hose into the caliper. Hold it tight so no air can escape and then pump air into it. It is much easier if you have a friend to help you. Pump the air into the caliper until the cylinder starts to move out and then pump some more - the cylinder will pop out eventually but be careful it can be propelled quite far by the air pressure.
When everything was in pieces I started cleaning the parts. It is best to do one caliper at a time so you can look at the assembled one if you don't know what fits where. I cleaned all the grease off the guidance shaft and cylinder because I was planning to put new grease on. I also cleaned all the rubber parts so they were as good as new.
The process of cleaning the calipers was the same as with the discs. There was only one difference - it took a loooot longer. All the edges, holes, uneven and rugged surfaces are a nightmare to clean because you can't do it all with the electrical equipment and a big portion has to by done by hand. When it was finally finished I cleaned with gasoline everything that was to be painted and applied the primer. Be careful not to paint certain parts of the caliper, such as the hole for the cylinder and shaft holes for the other piece. Also don't paint screws because the color will peel off when you remount it.
All the same happened to the hubs (the holders) for the discs and calipers with another exception - the corrosion was a little worse in some parts and I had to use some anti corrosion coating to stop the spreading and deactivating it, because I couldn't clean it completely. I used Antikorozin which is supposedly the best product of this sort on sale here in Slovenia. You spread it on the corroded parts and it will deactivate the rust and form a protective complex organic metal oxide coat that will prevent further spreading. After leaving it cure for 24 hours I applied the primer and the tough part was done.
Now the fun part began - the top coating. I applied two coats and let each cure for at least 24 hours. I used black for the discs and the hubs and Ferrari red for the calipers (the same as I did in the front). When everything was completely dried I started the assembly. I mounted the disc on the hub first and made sure everything was spinning smoothly. Then the calipers. I have cleaned the piston and the piston hole thoroughly (don't use gasoline because it can dissolve the rubber bushes), using brake fluid or cylinder grease. I applied some of this grease on the inner wall of the piston mounting hole and pushed the piston in along with its rubber sealant.
Next, I mounted the part of the caliper that has no piston on the brake hub and the disc. I used some copper grease (Plastilube) on the brake pads to prevent squeaking and smoother movement. Reposition the brake pads on the disc and make sure they run smoothly. The places to put the grease is shown here:
And the greases used:
Next I cleaned the holes for the shafts and put some copper grease in them. Then I repositioned the piston part of the brakes and screwed everything together. This is how the final result was like (the gray primer will come off after I brake a few times):
Assembly:
I took my car to the official dealer because it is still under warranty. First you have to remove the wheels. Inside the car remove the center console (the one on the floor, where the hand-brake lever is) so you can gain access to the hand-brake wire. Disconnect both. Then you have to unscrew three bolts that are holding the hand-brake line on the floor of the car and pull the whole thing out. Next you have to disconnect the brake fluid lines. Sorry I don't have pictures, but I forgot my camera at home. When the lines are disconnected you can disconnect the ABS sensor and remove four screws from the back of the drum and pull it out.
Left side after assembly:
Prior to assembly you have to buy new brake fluid lines or braking hoses. So now attach the hose on the car where the old one was and run it towards the brakes mounting place. Be careful to run the hose carefully so it will not be obstructed by anything and it will run freely. Secure it in place so it cannot slip in the coils or rub on any sharp edges which could sever it. Mount the brake hub (nr. 3. in the picture) and run the hand brake wire towards the cabin. Secure it as you go in the same way you removed the old one. Reconnect them in the car to the hand brake lever. Put the disc on and secure it with a screw. Now you have to adjust the hand brake (if you want to know how to do this, e-mail me and I will add this too alienw@slo-tech.com). Put the calipers with the pads on. Mount the fluid line to the back of the caliper and reconnect the ABS sensor. The torques for securing the bolts are: four bolts that hold the hub and the ones that hold the calipers: 5,5 - 6 Nm; fluid line bolt: 2 Nm. Now do the same on the other side. Bleed the system and add some brake fluid to the tank. That is it. Put the car on a tester and test the brakes and the hand brake. I something is not right, fix it, you need brakes! If one brake goes and the fluid line is broken, all the brakes go!
Conclusion:
This is it. Watching my 1 year "new" car being disassembled on the table was not a nice sight. We had some troubles with the fluid lines because they weren't of the right size and they didn't have the right endings and when I got the right ones they were a nightmare to get them in the right place. We also had some troubles with setting the hand brake. The foot braking was great - very even on the rollers with less than 5% deviation. Now when I tested the brake thoroughly yesterday I have to say I am a bit shocked. I thought the swap will be just for cosmetics but now I am convinced otherwise. When I was braking hard (right before the ABS kicks in) from high speeds with drums I always had the feeling that the rear end wants to overtake the front end as if the brake force was not sufficient to stop the rear end on its own. Now there is no more wobbling around and that feeling of instability of the rear. It is much better than it was before.
The explanation can be found in torque. Drums are small and when you push the brake pedal it creates some force. This force multiplied by the radius of the drum gives you torque that is trying to stop the wheels from spinning. Now imagine a similar force (the same amount of braking fluid and the same braking servo) on a bigger radius and you get disc brakes.
So this is it. I am quite happy with the results although I was a bit scared during the process. I have to monitor the brakes and lines closely now for a few hundred kilometers and then: fun and style! 
Before:
And after:
Thanks for reading this through, I hope I helped in any way. Sorry for the mistakes made in grammar I don't have enough energy to read it through again and correct it. For more questions you can mail me to alienw@slo-tech.com. Have fun!
NOTE 8.8.2009: I had some problems with my handbrake - it didn't grab as much as it should. We dismantled the everything and found out that the problem was in two screws on each side - they were about 5mm too long. The screws in question are the two "rear" ones from the total four that hold the complete break assembly to the car. You should use the original shorter screws or make those from the drums about 5mm shorter. The handbrake pads should move freely past those screws. If they don't you'll get poor handbrake functionality.
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Uredil alien-w na 08.08.2009 18:30 |
  
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
Mr_Petek
Član
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Lokacija: Gorišnica
Pridružen: 22.04.07 |
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Lepo lepo Nisem bral celega teksta, jaz sem bol al majn pogledal samo slikce. Diske in čeljusti si dobil od drugega getza al od kakšnega drugega avta?
Mr_Petek |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
Templar
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Sporočila: 1053
Pridružen: 10.05.06 |
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UAU!!!
Vsaka čast!! |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
INFINITI
Član
Sporočila: 1202
Pridružen: 10.05.06 |
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Super DIY
  
"BACK IN BLACK"
Uredil INFINITI na 29.06.2007 14:57 |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
mrTwelveTrees
Član
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Lokacija: Okolica LJ
Pridružen: 01.10.06 |
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pa sej se na naročit orginal diske in čeljusti in vse...
ker getz dizl to že ima... pač vzamenš / naročiš od tega modela...
nisem bral članka ker se mi ne da; ti si to rableno naroču .. če sem prov vidu
lučka za abs ti gori ?
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
mayki25
Član
Sporočila: 36
Lokacija: trebnje
Pridružen: 07.12.06 |
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supre!!!
kok se pa to splača?
LP |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
alien-w
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Pridružen: 22.06.06 |
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Se da naročit ja, sam te pride 850 eur.
Rableno sem pošraufal z enga dizla. Sam je bil pred faceliftom. Pa dizel ma drugačne cevke za zavorno tekočino, tko da je blo treba narest po naročilu nove cevke pa se zajebavat s tem, da je pasal.
Lučka za ABS ne gori.
Splača? Ker tuning in styling se pa splača?
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
INFINITI
Član
Sporočila: 1202
Pridružen: 10.05.06 |
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Splača se za dušo pa za feeling; ne pa da boš dobil to poplačano pri prodaji
"BACK IN BLACK"
Uredil INFINITI na 29.06.2007 21:53 |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
alien-w
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Lokacija: Ljubljana
Pridružen: 22.06.06 |
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Točno tako INFINITI
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
Mr_Petek
Član
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Pridružen: 22.04.07 |
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Alien-w mi lahko samo prosim poveš, kje si kupil barvo za barvanje čeljusti (za visoke temperature) in koliko je približno stala?
Hvala
Mitja
Mr_Petek |
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RE: DIY: Getz rear brakes swap |
alien-w
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Lokacija: Ljubljana
Pridružen: 22.06.06 |
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Barva je popolnoma navaden tesarol. Osnovna barva je mobihel karoserijski nitro emajl, pokrivna je pa tesarol emajl za železo. Majo maljon različnih odtenkov in ti jih lahko zmešajo v mavrici.
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